Journal

Stories, reflections and observations from across Southeast Asia.

The Practical Monk

A week in a remote Thai monastery challenged many of my assumptions about Buddhism. What I found wasn’t mysticism, but practical compassion expressed through education, community service and thoughtful leadership.

What I Learned About Cambodia From a Tuk-Tuk Driver

More than thirty years later, there are only two things I remember clearly about that day in Phnom Penh. One was a room at Tuol Sleng. The other was something the tuk-tuk driver said to me on the journey back to my hotel.

Where the Timber Yard Once Stood

We travelled to Laos expecting to witness a country preparing to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the Lao People's Democratic Republic. Instead, the journey became a return to the places where a childhood had unfolded and an opportunity to reflect on what remains when the places themselves have disappeared.

Election Weekend in Yangon

A personal reflection of a remarkable weekend in Yangon in November 2015, when optimism filled the streets and Myanmar’s democratic future suddenly seemed possible.

The Green Rush

How Thailand Opened the Door to Cannabis, Then Changed the Rules

Thailand’s cannabis boom created opportunities almost overnight. But as the government tightened the rules, entrepreneurs who had invested in the new industry faced an uncertain future. From an old teak house in Chiang Mai, the story of one small business reveals the human cost of changing course.